Climbing Area – Cap des Pères – Petit Cap

Simply awesome sport area with a LOT of moderates. Most climbs are reasonably closely bolted making for a great area for a beginning leader. Don’t park at the area close to the trail; the climbing area has precarious access, so don’t be a jerk; park at the pullout further down the road.

The crag has a very gym like feeling to it with painted line numbers on the rock, a paper topo on trees, closely bolted lines (for the most part) and dedicated anchors for most routes.

Route Comments

• #4: Easy 5.9 with a single 5.9 move which is done with a bolt clipped over the head. A nice climb nonetheless.
• #5: Enjoyable and easy 5.7 corner climb.
• #6: A VERY enjoyable 5.7. I’d say the best 5.7 at this crag. Not as easy as most of the other 5.7′s here
• #7: The only 5.8 here. Enjoyable as well with some nice balancy moves.
• #9: I found the start tough … not as nice as the other 5.7′s at the cliff.
• #10: Pass … not much to say here. It’s climbing.
• #13: Bouldery start; definitely a 5.9+. The very last move is not an easy one for 5.9+ … Nice climb.
• #14: Ok 5.9. Not much more to add.
• #15: Short but nice route. A nice balancy move at the end.
• #16: I didn’t really enjoy this one. Harder than it looks and harder than most of other 5.7′s here.
• #17: Don’t miss this one! Follows a nice arrete.
• #19: Not much to say; fun as with the others, but not outstanding.
• #20: Easy 5.6 with jugs to the top; nice warm up.